A tomato pie fresh from the oven at Haven Pizzeria Napoletana. Photo by Emma Patti

I’ve already written a lot about the décor and design at Haven Pizzeria Napoletana, the New Haven-style pizzeria in Bethesda that’s finally opening on Wednesday, February 15. The 14-foot paddles to retrieve pies from the massive 2000-degree coal-fired ovens. The floor made from reclaimed wood from an old Maker’s Mark whiskey barrel aging house in Kentucky. The white marble bar that was part of the floor of Philadelphia’s Independence Hall about 100 years ago, and so on.

But this sneak peek—which includes photos of those details—also includes a sneak eat. And if my initial tastes of two pizzas and some gelato are indicative of what’s to come, I think Bethesda area residents are in for a real treat.

Too many pizzas in town have one fault or another (flabby crust, unremarkable sauce, rubbery cheese, excessive oil, weird ratios of ingredients), but my first impression is that the components of these pies really click.

Look forward to thin, crisp crusts with a slightly charred edge and smoky aftertaste; bright, not-too-sweet tomato sauce and high-quality toppings like freshly shucked top neck clams.

As for the incredibly creamy and intensely-flavored gelato, all I can say is wow.

Haven Pizzeria Napoletana, 7137 Wisconsin Ave. Bethesda, 301-664-9412. www.havenpizzeria.com